Textile fragment with linked diamond-shapes, hexagons, and pseudo-inscription

Details

  • Catalogue text

    Linked Y-shapes create square diamonds and hexagons. This grid design creates rhombic spaces between. The diamonds are outlined in blue and contain a small band with a pseudo-inscription; the hexagons surrounding them are filled with brown and pale green embroidered in slanted counted filling stitches, worked on the diagonal.

    The textile has been radiocarbon dated to 1315 +/- 45.

    In: Barnes, Ruth and Marianne Ellis, ‘The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries’, 4 vols, 2001, Oxford, Ashmolean Museum

    The way the pattern has been interpreted on this fragment, compared with the pattern darned band (No.33 [EA1984.463]), shows how the special qualities of certain embroidery stitches were exploited in ways that added considerably to the visual effect. The worker has added a two-dimensional effect to the embroidery by outlining the pattern in double running in dark blue silk, and by alternating the slant and colours of the counted filling stitches. Radiocarbon dating shows that this fragment was made between the late 13th and mid 14th century when both counted and freestyle embroideries were being produced and different stitches were introduced into the repertoire.

    In: Ellis, Marianne, Embroideries and Samplers from Islamic Egypt (Oxford: Ashmolean Museum, in association with Greenville: Curious Works Press, 2001)

Further reading

Ellis, Marianne, Embroideries and Samplers from Islamic Egypt (Oxford: Ashmolean Museum, in association with Greenville: Curious Works Press, 2001), no. 34 on p. 52, p. 51, illus. p. 52

Barnes, Ruth and Marianne Ellis, ‘The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries’, 4 vols, 2001, Oxford, Ashmolean Museum, vol. ii, vol. i

Reference URL

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